The Rebirth of Favre Leuba: A Visionary Renaissance
Favre Leuba, a name synonymous with heritage and Swiss precision, experienced a remarkable transformation in 2024.
After years of dormancy, the brand surged forward with fresh leadership under Patrik Hoffmann, a watchmaking industry veteran.
Hoffmann, known for his influential roles at Watchbox Switzerland and Ulysse Nardin, ushered in a new era by positioning Favre Leuba around three distinct collections: Chief, Sea Sky, and Deep Blue.
This strategic shift reflects Hoffmann’s vision to revitalize the brand while retaining its legacy.
Under Hoffmann’s leadership, the origins of the Chief collection emerged as the cornerstone of Favre Leuba’s rebirth in the contemporary watch industry. It celebrates the classic aesthetic of the brand while remaining unfettered by the past and instead, showing a direct commitment to modern innovation. Indeed, one could say that the Chief collection embodies a balanced fusion of Favre Leuba’s ancestral knowledge with the future of the brand. The Chief Tourbillon, the most intricate timepiece in the collection, is nothing less than a bold “hello” from the watchmaker. Indeed, as the Chief stands as the reigning pinnacle of craftsmanship at Favre Leuba, it has also become a powerful statement piece for the brand.
A Tourbillon Like No Other: The Chief Collection’s Flagship
The Chief Tourbillon from Favre Leuba is strikingly handsome—and at nearly $25,000, it’s also awfully dear. To some, it might seem a bit much to pay for what, when you get down to it, is just a very complicated watch to tell time with. But let’s clarify: The Chief Tourbillon truly is complex, and its appearance is just as opulent. Making the dial pop at you (and at a retail price hard to ignore) are raised sunray-brushed triangles that contrast almost too perfectly with recessed matte sections of the same bronze alloy (which are underneath, so the hands can do their thing as well as a tourbillon can, which is to say, very spectacularly).
What makes the Chief Tourbillon’s design even more remarkable is the movement that powers it, the FL T01 caliber. Developed in collaboration with Chronode founder Jean-François Mojon, the FL T01 displays the expertise of both Favre Leuba and Mojon’s engineering team in a manual-winding movement that offers a 60-hour power reserve. This is far from an ordinary timepiece movement. It houses a 14.85mm tourbillon cage that gives a commanding view of its intricate inner workings. It’s a true marvel of Swiss watchmaking.
The Art of Engineering: Craftsmanship Meets Tradition
The design ethos of Favre Leuba enshrines the brand’s storied past while looking firmly to the future. For instance, the cage of the Chief Tourbillon has an hourglass shape—just like the Favre Leuba symbol that’s been adorning its timepieces since 1737. It’s an aesthetic theme that’s carried over to the watch’s caseback, where the company has managed a feat that’s quite literally a first: a spiral-relief hourglass motif so to-the-teeth precise that it could very well be a tribute to the Favre Leuba legacy of watchmaking. And that’s before we get to the blue screws holding the movement in place—another nod to the brand’s tradition.
Equally extraordinary is the engineering of the Chief Tourbillon, a piece that blends modern design with the traditional watchmaking techniques of Favre Leuba. The marriage of an intricate movement, an inimitable dial, and exclusive craftsmanship makes the Chief Tourbillon a true masterpiece in the context of any watch, the kind that is passed down from collector to collector. (Only 25 are made, so it, too, is part of what’s making the contest a highlight of the Baselworld fair.)
The Future of Favre Leuba: Bridging Past and Present
Favre Leuba’s reappearance with the Chief Tourbillon sets up a fresh chapter in the brand’s history. When presenting long-lost iconic design staples, Favre Leuba appears to be any other watchmaker at Baselworld. But looks can be deceiving; the Chief Tourbillon isn’t just a hunk of precious metal and some well-earned nostalgia. It’s an actual timepiece, a modern embodiment of the brand’s much-ballyhooed heritage.
While watching evolution, Favre Leuba stands as a beacon for innovation that ensures a place in the future and a rich legacy. Its watch portfolio refined for the ‘traditionalists and modern’ collectors ensures that the competitiveness of this luxury watchmaker continues to thrive in the “watch evolution”.
Tech Specs: Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon
- The movement is a manually wound FL T01 (which is based on the Chronode C502) and has a 60-hour power reserve.
- Hours, minutes, and a 60-second tourbillon are the functions.
- Enclosure: 41mm × 11.45mm; made of marine grade stainless steel; resistant to fresh water and splashes up to 100m.
- Dial: Dial of black stamped metal featuring raised, sunray-brushed triangular elements with a glossy finish. The dial also features recessed matte triangles.
- Bracelet: Double-link, brushed and polished steel. Clasp: Folding. Additional strap: Black rubber.
- Available: Only 25 units
- Cost: CHF 24,800
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- What makes the Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon unique?
The Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon is a piece that truly stands out for its captivating three-dimensional dial. The watch dials are indeed creations of art; ours was designed by a Swiss watchmaker with experience in haute horlogerie.
While we cannot divulge too much about our in-house dial-making processes, we can say that our dials—like this one on the Chief Tourbillon—make extensive use of optical layering.
The result is a play of light that is simply not possible with a flat two-dimensional surface. Of course, dials and watch movements are equally subject to the law of “visible is good; invisible is bad” that governs the aesthetics of all human-made objects. - How is the Chief Tourbillon priced?
The Chief Tourbillon is priced at CHF 24,800, putting it in the luxury flagship category within Favre Leuba’s portfolio. Its price reflects not only the movement’s complexity but also the watch’s exclusivity; only 25 will be made. Price: CHF 24,800; Movement: Manual; Frequency: 21,600 vph; Components: 235; Jewels: 37; Duration: 10 days; Exclusivity: 25 pieces. - Who is behind the design and engineering of the Chief Tourbillon?
The design and engineering of the Chief Tourbillon is a collaboration of Favre Leuba and Chronode’s Jean-François Mojon. Mojon’s team took the Chief Tourbillon’s movement, reworked it, and then plunged into the development of a completely new kind of tourbillon. The movement is actually based on FL T01; still, the Chief Tourbillon is unlike any other tourbillon. My experience ranges from developing movements for prestigious brands like MB&F and Hermès, so I tend to view tourbillons through a different lens—in more detail and with less devotion to traditional practices. - What is the significance of the hourglass motif in the design?
The hourglass shape, conspicuously displayed in both the tourbillon cage and the caseback, serves as a symbolic reference to Favre Leuba’s emblem. It embodies the concept of time in motion—a nod to the brand’s commitment to crafting timepieces that meld classic watchmaking with contemporary design. - Is the Chief Tourbillon water-resistant?
Yes. The Chief Tourbillon is water-resistant to 100 meters, making it a high-durability luxury watch, suitable for a number of activities, and yet as elegantly simple as ever.
Author Bio:
Patrik Hoffmann is an experienced industry veteran who has substantial know-how in the craft of watchmaking. He formerly served as Vice President at Watchbox Switzerland and was the CEO of Ulysse Nardin. He now presides over Favre Leuba, taking the brand into a new epoch of design and innovation.
